№ 09Islands · Pembrokeshire, Wales
Skomer
An island where puffins own the paths and the world's biggest shearwater colony sleeps underfoot.
Photographs David Purchase (CC BY-SA 2.0) · RewildingGirl5 (CC BY-SA 4.0) · Wikimedia Commons
In early summer Skomer runs on puffin time: thousands of them whirring in off the sea with beaks full of sand eels, landing at your feet and vanishing down burrows beside the path. They have no fear of people, because on Skomer people have never been the problem.
The bigger secret is invisible by day — hundreds of thousands of Manx shearwaters, the world's largest colony, asleep in burrows under the whole island until they come screaming home in the dark. Bluebells in May, seal pups in September, and a day-ticket queue that starts early for good reason.
The knowledge
- Getting there
- Boats from Martin's Haven, near Marloes, Pembrokeshire, spring to autumn; day landings are limited — book ahead through the Wildlife Trust.
- Best time
- Mid-April to mid-July for puffins with beaks full; May for the bluebell haze over the whole island.
- Local tip
- Sit down on the path near the Wick and stay still for ten minutes — the puffins will come to you.
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